Healthy Hair: A Guide to Getting Full, Shiny, Strong Locks

Ever look in the mirror and wonder, How can I get healthy hair? It’s a valid question, given that hair can boost self-esteem and play an important role in maintaining other aspects of good health. “Our hair protects us from the cold, it insulates our head, and it provides some cushioning against trauma,” says Debra Wattenberg, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.

In this guide to having healthy hair, learn why caring for your locks is so important, plus get tips for keeping your hair in great shape and discover some common mistakes to avoid.

“Your hair can be an extension of your hygiene and can also reflect vitamin deficiencies and problems going on internally,” says Angela Lamb, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and associate professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai in New York City. “If your hair and scalp are unhealthy, it can lead to itching, inflammation, and untreated chronic skin conditions like eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, and alopecia,” Simply put, there are a lot of reasons you should care about your hair — and want to keep it healthy — in addition to looking good.

The aesthetic component of hair isn’t something to overlook either. “Our hair is our crown — it’s one of the first things people see when they meet us,” says Jessica Walker, hairstylist and founder of J. Walker Salon Group in New Jersey. “Our hair dictates so much of our confidence and how we feel, inside and out.”

Just like there’s a wide array of hair types, there is a significant range of signs of healthy hair. “Healthy hair is hair that is free of breakage and split ends and is achieving its maximum potential for your particular hair type,” says Dr. Lamb. “So, for example, if you have a curly hair pattern, it might not be ‘shiny,’ but as long as during washes you are not experiencing excess loss or breakage, your hair is healthy.”

According to the experts interviewed, the following are some of the main signs of healthy hair and scalp, though they may not apply to all hair types. As Lamb points out, it’s important “not to define hair health by certain cultural standards.”

• Scalp is clean, not inflamed, and free of dandruff.
• It exhibits minimal breakage and shedding.
• It does not snap off during brushing.
• Light reflects off hair.
• It has sheen and luster.
• It is moisturized.

You may be able to tell when something is amiss with your hair. You might be losing more hair than normal, for instance, or maybe your hair feels much more dry than is typically the case.

“There are universal indicators of hair health, though hair type impacts the intensity of these things,” says Luis Pacheco, a celebrity hair colorist based in Toronto. For example: “Naturally dehydrated hair types, like [coily] and curly hair or fully gray hair, will be prone to dryness,” Pacheco says. “But if it starts breaking or feeling brittle, you need to take a look at what is going on.”

Here are common signs of damaged hair, though they may vary depending on hair type:

• The hair is brittle.
• Lots of hair sheds when a brush or comb is run through it.
• Big clumps of hair fall out.
• You have visible bald spots or can easily see your scalp.
• The strands break at mid-shaft.
• The hair lacks luster or shine.
• Hair splits at the ends.
• It is hard to detangle.
• It is drier than normal.

One caveat: If you feel you’ve been losing a lot of hair recently, bear in mind that you should expect to experience some daily shedding. “It’s normal to lose around 100 hairs per day,” says Wattenberg.

However, excessive hair loss may indicate a number of health conditions or deficiencies. “You should see a doctor if you notice circular areas of hair loss, pain or itching in the scalp, or a rapid increase of hair in the comb or brush or on the floor or in the drain,” says Lamb. In this case, you may benefit from seeing a trichologist or a dermatologist who specializes in hair loss.

While different hair types require tailored methods of care, one principle is universally true: It’s important to show your hair some TLC. Here, learn some key best practices for keeping your hair healthy.

Choose Shampoos and Conditioners That Are Specific to Your Hair Type

In case you didn’t know, products exist for every hair type and hair issue. And, as it turns out, many such goods aren’t gimmicks. “These products are quite specialized and can make a world of difference,” says Wattenberg. “Is your scalp dry or oily? Is your hair color-treated? Do you have dandruff? Be sure to choose the shampoo and conditioner that’s designed for you,” she says.

Shield Your Hair and Scalp From the Sun

Protect Your Hair While Swimming

Although swimming is great exercise, ample time in the pool isn’t ideal for your hair. “Chemicals in the pool can dry your hair and irritate it,” says Wattenberg.

She advises applying conditioner before jumping in, or wearing a cap. It’s also wise to wet your hair with fresh water first, before conditioning it, so that your hair absorbs the chlorine-free water rather than the chemical-filled H2O. You may even want to buy a special shampoo and conditioner designed for swimmers, which can help replace some of the hair’s moisture that may have been lost.

Research Products Before Purchasing

A surprisingly long list of ingredients typically goes into making hair-care products, and not all of them are healthy, to say the least.

Consider a Silk Pillowcase

Sleeping on a silk pillowcase offers more than a luxurious feel. “I suggest all hair types should consider a silk pillowcase, so you aren’t roughing up the cuticle while you sleep,” says Pacheco. “This is particularly beneficial for fizz-prone, curly, coily, and fragile hair types,” he adds.

Go to a Professional for Relaxers

Consider Foods and Supplements for Healthy Hair

Did you know that what you eat can have a huge impact on the health of your hair? “Maintaining a well-balanced diet is a key factor in hair health, and if your body is not healthy, your hair may give you the first sign that something is up,” says Wattenberg. On the flip side, crash dieting or yo-yo dieting, as well as anemia and hormone imbalances, can all negatively affect the hair’s growth, texture, length, and sheen, she adds.

• Biotin
• Iron
• Zinc
• Vitamin C
• Vitamin D
• Protein
• Healthy fats (like omega-3 fatty acids)

“These can usually be absorbed in sufficient quantities through the food you eat, assuming you have a well-balanced diet,” says Wattenberg. “Some of my favorite foods include salmon for an excellent source of protein, omega-3 fats, and vitamin D. I’m also a big fan of eggs — they are a great way to get protein and biotin.” Because your hair is made up of so much protein, it’s an essential nutrient for growing your hair. Healthy fats, meanwhile, keep your hair moisturized and looking its best.

Other powerhouse foods for your hair? “Make sure to eat plenty of citrus fruits, bell peppers, and spinach for vitamin C, which is key for collagen formation,” says Wattenberg.

Overprocessing Your Hair

Overprocessing happens when you bleach your hair or improperly use products like hair dye or relaxers. “Overprocessing is bad for hair regardless of color, texture, and genetics,” says Wattenberg. “It leads to breakage of disulfide bonds and ultimately hair breakage.” Disulfide bonds keep your hair’s proteins together, which gives hair its strength.

Thus, most experts recommend skipping the bleach and extending the time between color touch-ups (in the winter, they suggest waiting as long as 8 to 10 weeks).

Overdrying Your Hair

Another method of overprocessing? Using your hair dryer and hot styling tools too regularly. “Blow-dryers, curling irons, and flat irons can burn your hair and your scalp — and can cause your hair to break and fall out,” says Wattenberg.

If you do use a hair dryer, experts suggest using it at the lowest temperature and at a distance of several inches in order to prevent damage as much as possible. Also, move the device with a continuous motion, rather than staying on one spot for long periods of time.

Skipping the Conditioner

Even if you’re in a rush, it’s a good idea to condition your hair after every shampoo. Conditioners can improve the look of damaged hair by adding shine, helping to strengthen it, and even reducing static electricity. Wattenberg advises making sure you’re keeping the conditioner in long enough to really see the benefits. Follow the directions noted on the bottle.

Also, follow a shampoo and conditioner routine in accordance to your hair type. “Styling practices vary completely based on hair type and desired style,” says Lamb.

Intensely Brushing Your Hair

Too much brushing isn’t good for your hair, especially if you use all your strength to remove those knots. Try as best as you can to brush gently to prevent breakage. Ideally, you’ll want to use a wide-tooth brush with smooth prongs (though ask your stylist if there’s a special brush that’s best for your hair type).

Going Too Long Without a Haircut

When your hair stylist suggests that you come back for a haircut every few months, it’s not just to keep you as a regular client. “Regular haircuts help avoid damage from the ends up,” says Pacheco. “Split ends run up the shaft and weaken the hair, exposing it to moisture loss and tangles.” Walker recommends a cut every six to eight weeks to prevent damage.

The same goes for people who are trying to grow out their hair. “If you’re looking to grow your hair, you might be considering skipping a trim,” says Walker. “But reshaping and trimming your hair regularly keeps it looking strong and healthy, as opposed to brittle and thin, while you move through the growing process.”

Letting Braids, Cornrows, or Weaves Get Too Tight

If your stylist pulls your hair so tightly that it hurts, the likelihood is strong that your hair is enduring damage. Be sure to speak up and ask your stylist for a redo in this case. Chronically tight braids and cornrows can lead to permanent follicle damage, potentially causing the hair to not grow back over time.

• Hair is more than simply something to be styled at the top of your head — it’s a window into your overall health, and it needs to be treated mindfully.
• Common signs of healthy hair include experiencing minimal shedding and breakage when brushing, feeling moisturized, and looking lustrous, though these attributes are relative to what is normal at baseline for your specific hair type.
• Caring for your hair may involve choosing the correct products for your type and texture, protecting your hair, eating a balanced diet to get key nutrients your hair needs, and avoiding common pitfalls like overprocessing and intensely brushing.
• If you notice a sudden change in your hair, particularly increased hair loss, it’s a good idea to make a doctor’s appointment.